In between a wedding, several family banquets and the usual shuttling from home to home, relative to relative, for chai, coffee, thanda (cold drinks) and the likes, our days have been a blur of rikshaws, temples, bazaars and street-side snacks. You soon come to realise that no matter how much you have eaten for lunch, there is always room for "chai-nasta" (tea and snacks), be it 10am, 4pm or 9pm. The hospitality here knows no bounds, but can be as relentless as it is generous. It feels kinder, and easier to walk away with heartburn than to refuse a cup of tea.
It's been absolutely brilliant to stay put in a city for more than a few days, with time to explore and acclimatise. More tomorrow.